The weekend of the 4th November a bunch of us did a
“One Night Stand” to Pilgrims Rest. There was Chris and Leonie on a 1200GS ADV.
Hein and Shaun on 950 Katooms and Johan on a 990 Ktm. Dennis the ”Ingilsman,”
the author of this trip report, was riding his 650 Dakar. Myself and Belinda
where trying out our new HP2.
Our plan was to get to Dullstroom as quickly as possible, have breakfast/brunch
and then explore the roads in the Lydenburg area. The plan was then to overnight
at Pilgrims Rest Campsite.
Here is a plan of our route to Pilgrims Rest.
I’ll let Dennis the “Ingilsman” continue…………………..
"The next bit's a bit more technical than we've done up to now."
So began one of those understatements for which bikers are famous. Yes, the road
was a little challenging, but such was the scenic splendour that I wouldn't have
missed it for all the world. Add that with the cameraderie, the laughter, the
true bonding and the sharing of such an experience - well, what can I say? Wow!
The beginning? Oh, yeah, well, I'm sure Garth said we're to meet 6 for 6:30 - I
even remember that I winced, thinking that would mean rising at 4:30 and riding
for an hour to get there..
Duly at 10 before 6, I arrive at said meeting point, and wait, ... and wait...
and wait. By 6:40 I'm beginning to panic, and by 6:50 I'm sure I got the date
wrong. Whew, at 6:55, two KTM's arrive, and the familiar tones erupt from a
helmet "Hoe gaan dit met jou, Inglsman?". So grateful to see someone, anyone, I
just about hugged the lad!
More folk arrive, and Hein, balls to the wind, as they would say in a less
elegant publication than this, decides to change his brake pads! Kan jy dit glo?
Asking for a screwdriver he sets off with a leatherman, and one slip later,
under strict instructions from Chris, he gets carted off to hospital to return
later with 3 stiches
Now the rest of us have to hang about, wondering what's happening at the hosital
- we needn't have worried: when asked how things were Hein answered "Sy is
getroud!" (as usual his mind was a little off topic). The extra time gave us a
chance to catch up - it had been a year or two since I'd ridden with this crew!
We set off via Bapsfontein, then left to the N4. Straight to Belfast Engen (so
Johan could get unleaded!) then into Dullstroom for breakfast. After some
indecision we settle for The Waffle Log. This is a new spot on the left hand
side coming into town from Belfast. They had a good menu and after much
indecsion most of us ordered a frying pan containing mince, beans and spicy
chillies (the effects of which were heard from Johan's corner not too long
after!), a lot of milkshakes, and the laughter that accompanies such good
events. The comedian (shall we say clown?) in Johan begins to show itself.
Tummies full we set off just out of Dullstroom onto a dirt road. I don't
know what it is, but there's a certain feeling hitting "first dirt" gives you -
almost as if one's body heaves a sigh of relief.
Shaun showing how it must be done…
Get back to the story! Ok, ok, the road narrowed, then up a short ridge, and
over into a wide valley, with hills overlapping in blue distance, a meandering
stream, and green meadows. Awesome!
About now it was noticed that Chris' Battlestar Galactica (for thats all one can
call something so huge, compared with the fine, slender figures of the KTMs and
the BMW Dakar). Even the HP2 looked trim beside that monster! Well, it was
noticed that old Galactica had the amazing ability to generate clouds of dust,
so much so that few were keen to have to ride behind the beast!
Chris and Leonie – Battlestar Galactica
A short break and then off again, a little tar, then second left up an amazing
road, winding via hairpin bends up a hill of note (later look at the map - the
hill is a mountain called Santa, at 2042m). Over the top, round the bend (as I'm
sure some would say we were!), and voila! a bed of lavender. A stop is made for
pics, and the ever present need for a smoke, then on and up to meet the 577
where its right to Lydenburg.
Good thinking on Garth's part and we take a detour almost completely around
Lydenburg, and get the thrill of the first bends on our way to Pilgrims Rest.
Stopping at the Crystal Springs turn off, its time for a biltong and smoke
break. It’s at this happy gathering that we hear the words "The next bit's a bit
more technical than we've done up to now."
Stop at Crystal Springs turnoff
The road starts off well enough, the to entrance of the forestry place, but then
soon shows what its made of. Shale, loose and crumbly, sitting on top of
bone-jarring ridges of shale-in-the-making. It certainly took all our
concentration, but the views more than made up for .. well, I can't really say
the pain because that was what we went for - the challenge of the offroad ride,
and what a ride it was too. As if it was too easy, Garth, in the lead, insisted
on taking us up side paths, as if the joy of turning a fully laden bike on a
narrow, rutted track just added to the general fun of the day!
We stop at a view of forever, and Hein tells us he has ridden a bicycle over
that large mountain to the left. Shaun decides we, the people, are not good
enough to take a pic of him and his worthy steed, so he grovels about in the
dust to line up his camera then scoot over to his bike in time for it to take a
happy, if dirty, snap of him looking ever so chuffed at his genius for getting
it right.
The bikes are lined up and pictures taken, then we mount again for an excellent
descent to a small valley and a closed gate! Thank goodness it was unlocked -
our thanks to Belinda for having staggered off and opened the gate(s) for us.
Onto a wide, well travelled public dirt road, covered with that fine dust that
gets into everywhere, and renders the road virtually invisible. Off go the two
KTMs and I follow, stang all the way, in a vain attempt to see over the dust
cloud. This works for a while, but around one corner the cloud just takes over.
I really can't believe it - how could 2 bikes make such a .. Just as I'm about
to finish that sentence I zoom into the worst part of the cloud, only to find
that its being made by a BIG YELLOW construction vehicle. Shaken, but not
deterred, I overtake, and give it my best, to attempt to catch up. Most of the
dust has settled by now, and I am able to make good speed, only to find myself
drop into a valley, then up onto a mountainside, confronted by a Toyota Prado in
the center of the road. Eek! That was close - I almost had the imprint of a
Toyota emblem on my nose.
Arriving in Pilgrims Rest we turn in and park haphazardly in front of The Vine -
time to get rid of that thirst. All are amazed at how much dust I have on my
clothing - I didn't say how close my meeting with the BIG YELLOW truck had been!
The campsite was a peaceful haven after the dust of the day - hot showers, tents
put up by some, whilst others raided the local stores for what turned out to be
amazing grub. Wood is bought and soon a fire is roaring. About this time J J and
Elmarie come roaring in. Yes, it is good to see old friends again.
Our Kitchen for the evening.
JJ and Nelmarie
A little interest is caused when a Safari truck comes rumbling in and Hein gets
a return wave from a pretty young thing in the back. We just had to laugh at
Hein's two man tent! and much ragging ensued about the concept that he must have
had his eyes on something else when he bought that one.
Hein’s tent. Just as well the pretty young thing from the Safari truck didn’t
join him for a bit of “slap and tickle!!”
After a great meal, and an incredible salad, one by one we all turn in, what a
great day it has been (well, some folk, no names mentioned, stayed up til the
wee hours consuming more than wee drams of rum - a fact highlighted by their
bleak looks at the breakfast table the next day).
Most of the crowd slept in til well after sunrise. They tell me it was so that
the groundsheets could dry, but somehow I don't believe that. It was decided
that breakfast will be had in Graskop, and that we'll take the Long Tom Pass
road home. Breakfast consisted amazingly of lime milkshakes, flapjacks, omlettes,
bacon, pancakes with ice cream, caramel and banana, and some even had a slice of
black forest cake! Once satisfied, it was time to mount up, causing the usual
stir, fill up and head off thru the bends.
Breakfast in Graskop
A stop on a pass for a final round of photos (and the coercion of a great sales
lady wanting quick sales - R10, R10, R10 was the cry, seeing a number of us
heading off as proud possesors of "daai heerlike skilpadjties" to quote Elmarie)
and we're off home.
What an exhilarating time. Renewing friendships, doing something we all love,
discussing bikes (and the fact that 3 years ago the majority were BMWs while now
the KTM’s had the majority!!!), the friendly ragging. Even Garth getting upset
over a few male member's wish to be holding his new wife, Belinda, when it came
to having their pics taken. All things to be remembered, things that bring a
smile to one lips, and a faraway look in our eyes.
Yes, I'd do it again, any day!
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Africa is not for Sissies