1200GS Adventure, 4000km, 4 Countries, 10 Days

It all started on Friday the 14^th of July 2006. Woke up at about 6:30 to leave ASAP from Gaborone. Roy joined us from East London on his Afica twin, Chris and Leonie on the new bee em Adventure. We had about 860km to do for the first day – so left early and had breakfast at Mahalapye. The road is being tarred around Orapa area and we had a few interesting criss-cross detours on gravel to do – but other than that the road is a bit  boring, straight tar. Arrived in Maun at dusk, but had just enough time to erect our tents in the Island Safari Lodge camp site. The 2Km driveway is quite sandy – but nothing serious. Had some good supper in the bar area and went to bed somewhat early.

Saturday 15 July

Not so early – we left for Shakawe. The green landscape around the Okovango delta is absolutely beautiful to see. Strangely enough – only one elephant crossed the road, in front of us and the climbed over the fence – quite comical,the circus style moves to lift his legs up high, but no damage to himself or the fence! the only one we saw in Botswana. We rode into Shakawe to get petrol . Then we had to go back on the same road for about 10km to find Drodsky’s Cabins on recommendation from JJ, who has been there before. Drodsky’s also has a rather sandy driveway of about 2 or 3 km, again nothing too serious. This is where we met the first of the 2 of the 7 dwarfs we met on our trip. Grumpy was his name. Only kidding. His wife actually mentioned that he was just being his normal self, and that he would chill by the evening. Camping costs P75 and Dinner P88. Grumpy actually turned out to be the exceptionally pleasant owner Johan Drodsky. We went on a boat out on the Okavango with Richard – our captain. You can hire a small boat that seats about 10 people for P175 for an hour. You can also take your drinks along on the trip for your very own booze cruise. Saw hippos, beautiful birds and many crocs. Came back and had our 3-course amazingly delicious meal. We chatted until late around the fire with Grumpy, his wife and another couple who are traveling everywhere with their 4x4. The hippo very near the campsite scared us a little, but not enough! Very clean, nice ablution facilities, great food and great people will certainly bring us back here. The monkeys stole our coffee – so beware!!

Sunday 16 July

We left camp and headed via the Caprivi strip (Namibia) and out by Katima Mulilo to get to Zambia and Livingstone. The border crossing into Zambia is a bit lengthy and costs US$50 per vehicle. A bit tired after this day 620km –on arriving in Livingstone Waterfront we decided to stay in permanent tents with beds, which are lockable, and a bit more comfortable as we are staying for 2 nights. US $48 per night for a double or $36 for single is a bit steep, but what can you do? Oh – you can camp in your own tent off course for $7 per night.

Monday 17 July

Rest day-We had done the river rafting thing before – so decided to take it easy and go for a 15min helicopter flight ($90 each) over the falls, expensive – but worth it. The view you have from there is breathtaking. We also crammed in a booze cruise including dinner for $40 each – drinking as much as you like. Here we met and Indian guy and his Russian wife in their early 30’s. In his line of business he has holidays for 3 months a year, so they have decided to see at least 5 countries a year – so by the time he is 76, he would have seen the world. They have no money when they get home – but who cares – you only live once! We had a great time and saw another elephant drinking water at the Zambezi (or wash it perhpsh 10?). Needless to say – we got his business card and are going to visit them in India some day!

Tuesday 18 July

Roy left early this morning to go home via the Ferry at Kazungulu and back through Bots. We headed for Lusaka and decided to go 5 star for the evening and stay in the Holiday Inn in Lusaka. It was obviously meant to be, because we ran into an old work-friend of Chris’ and had a lovely dinner with him and his colleague. Petrol in Zambia also goes for about R13,70 a litre (or a hell of a lot of Kwachas). The next morning at breakfast – I also ran into my boss of 14 years ago. All – I can say – this was an interesting trip and we met really interesting people.

Wednesday 19 July

We left for Zimbabwe and took it slow as we only had 200km to do to get to Kariba. We expected a lengthy border-crossing, and we certainly got one. Chris asked the lady if we can go – she said yes, and we got dressed on the bike and 5m further at the boom – “Where is your insurance?” What insurance? Well, get off the bike go to another counter and blah, blah, blah. Another $40 later, 2 hours later and finally you can go. If anyone reading this is going to Zim – just remember to stay calm – it is all worth it! Remember your original bike papers and lots of money. Apparently they also want an Interpol clearance certificate. But we think the guy who wanted this was just having a bad day and needed to take it out on someone. We convinced him that we have never heard of that and finally left. You cross over the Kariba Dam wall and apparently are not allowed to take pictures. Whatever, we did... We were told to go to the Caribbea Bay Lodge and found it eventually. At the gate was the next dwarf ‘Happy” u should have been there to see his welcome for us! We nearly fell off the bike, we laughed so much. It costs R1000 a night, so we gave up on that idea. They also want R1000 per person for a booze cruise. Mmm, off to MOTH camp. They were fully booked and only had camping available. Emelda Jakobs – the manager felt sorry for me as I had the runs (bad water in Zambia) and offered for us to stay in her home – which is right by the entrance and part of the office. She also made some chicken curry and invited us to have dinner with her and her brother. It tasted good – Chris had seconds, but I couldn’t keep much in. We hugged the next morning as we made another couple of good friends. It is hard to see how people are struggling in Zim, yet they are so positive – and have good hope for the future.

Thursday 20 July

Off to Harare to see Chris’ old friend and ex-boss from Nestle. What a surprise – the town looks like Pretoria, only a bit smaller. We parked at the Westgate shopping Centre (jip they have huge ones) and waited for Eugene. Still sad to see how quiet all these places are, yet some people in Zim still make loads of money – you must see the houses and cars! Shortage of petrol or not – we found petrol on our way here at Chinhoyi. We had to negotiate with the owner though, because if you do it legally and change money at Barcleys bank – you will pay about R35 per litre of petrol. He ended up giving us 18 litres for $20 US, which is not that bad when you came from Zambia. Eugene and Petro took us out for dinner after we had a nice shower. After a nightcap at home we had a good nights rest.

Friday 21 July

Eugene’s driver – Last, picked us up at their home in a huge golf estate that could just as well be Woodhill. Mugabe lives sort of across the way in a valley – you can only see a lot of trees around the fence. But the view at this place is to die for – open space everywhere, and such peace and tranquility you will never think people in Zim are struggling. We visited the Nestle factory in Harare to do a bit of work for Chris – so he wouldn’t feel too guilty about going on holiday. We also visited some stores and the Nestle Head office, where we met Eugene who took us out for lunch at a very good Portuguese restaurant. Décor is no longer important in these restaurants, but they still make good food. Out for dinner again – I think we have been spoilt rotten. Eugene even bought us stickers for our bike!

Saturday 22 July

420km today, we didn’t change any money after all and used US dollars wherever they would accept it. Rands and Pula was also happy to be taken. We stayed in Bulawayo in Zak’s place for P250 and had dinner down the road from there at a small restaurant called Bonjour where all the local ex-pats go. We had 2 Whiskeys, 2 Rum and Cokes and 2 pastas for only R85. By the way – all foreigners must pay their accommodation in forex and to change money on the streets are not recommended. They say that Zanu PF people try to catch you and pose as street venders and try to swap any forex for Zim dollar. 2 Rand is worth Zim$100 000 right now, but it varies tremendously from day to day.

Sunday 23 July

We left at 7 this morning to get an early start on our last 611km of 4100km. This border crossing was easy as pie – took us about 5 minutes. It seems like they are happy to let you go. Nevertheless, after a friendly chat with the border officials at the Bots side, we were on our way. Had breakfast in Francistown and got back to Gabs at 1:30. Yes we were doing about 160km an hour, a bit gatvol of sitting, but happy to have done such an amazing-people-meeting trip.